The ratios of cooking

Ratio by Michael Ruhlman (Scribner, 2009, ISBN 978146566113) purports to be the latest and greatest in books claiming to teach how to cook without recipes. Derived from a chart Ruhlman acquired from Chef Uwe Hestnar, a dean at the Culinary Institute of America, it actually does a fairly creditable job of showing how certain aspects of cooking (particularly baking, charcuterie, and saucemaking) are based heavily on ingredient ratios (weight, by the way, not volume ratios, which are somewhat useless due to differences in ingredient density). Hestnar felt quite strongly (and presumably still does) that these ratios were the most critical things a professional chef needs to know, and that pretty much anything else is secondary.

As is often the case with books of this sort, Ratio oversells itself; anyone who's spent a great deal of time studying politics can tell you that something that claims to be the utmost in simplicity seldom really is, and truthfully this book has a tendency to downplay technique (entire books can be and have been written on the subject, which really isn't a very simple subject at all), as well as hyperfocusing on classical Franco-international cuisine. The question really comes down to this: how valid is Hestnar's point, and can a non-cook learn to cook from Ruhlman's book?

Well, Hestnar's not wrong. Certainly a lot of this book comes down to the interactions of the chemical components of food; mayonnaise, for example, and its dependence on egg yolk as an emulsifier is an extreme example, since it really takes very little yolk to emulsify oil and vinegar (indeed, Ruhlman quotes a 20:1:1 ratio for oil/vinegar/yolk), but the ratio in question is extremely squishy compared to the rather strict 5:3 ratio of flour to water for a standard loaf bread (hardcore bakers will recognize that as a baker's percentage of 66%). And indeed these ratios are fairly important for the subjects that Hestnar's chart covers -- too little liquid will create a gloppy sauce, and too much will create a hard-to-handle bread dough (although this is something you actually want for a ciabatta). And fat ratios make the difference between a bread dough and a pastry dough.

But as I said, I do think it's oversold. The simple fact is that these ratios really aren't as general as Ruhlman wants to think; they cover only certain parts of the culinary arts, and are mainly of use for troubleshooting purposes outside the realms the book covers. And Ruhlman's work only covers classical French-based cuisine; there isn't a tomato sauce to be found in here, for example, nor any discussion of rice or other grains (if cooking rice isn't ratio-driven I don't know what is). But what is in here is quite useful, and it does promote the use of weight measurements in the American kitchen, something people seem to be afraid of. It's an interesting read, and I do recommend it, but as a guide to improvisational cooking it only does half the job.

Been slackin'

I've been rather busy of late, and, well, I haven't been foodblogging. I do have a few new recipes to post when I type them up, and I've got another show in the pipeline and at least one in the planning stages. I've also got a copy of Molecular Gastronomy by Hervé This (I think I liked the French title better -- translated approximately to "Saucepans and Test Tubes") and I'm kicking around a possible purchase of Thomas Keller's Under Pressure, because when you get right down to it, how can I blog about food science without discussing sous vide?

Meantime, I am loving some of the stuff I've acquired lately, particularly The Complete Robuchon by Joel Robuchon (go to amazon.com and check out my review), which brings all the cooking that people like Julia Child, Dione Lucas, Alice Waters, Madeleine Kamman, and Richard Olney made famous into the 20th century with the spartan but informative voice of one of the world's greatest chefs. In the meantime, if I haven't mentioned it on the blog before, check out the "Feeding America" archive at Michigan State university, which is a firehose of interesting American regional and ethnic historical cookbooks.